Our baristas around the world: Portugal
It's vacation time. Even so, the passion for coffee is drawing FARO's baristas back to their roots as they explore the world. While we usually focus on coffee-producing countries, we'll be launching a series of blog posts about the coffee shops in the countries where our baristas spend their holidays or international assignments. Through these travels, they'll give you a glimpse into the local coffee culture. Each blog post will be written by the barista. For example, what are the defining elements of the coffee scene in Korea, Singapore, Australia, Central America, or Europe? Stay tuned…
To start this series of blog posts, being a self-confessed tourist, I'll be happy to introduce you to some cafes I've had the pleasure of visiting, where I paid exorbitant prices for my coffees! That said, I thoroughly enjoyed my experience (just not the bill!).
During my business trips, I always seek out independent coffee shops. I want to see what's out there and drink coffee that's better crafted than what you'd find in the big fast-food chains. Even on vacation, I keep my eyes peeled. However, the offerings tend to be quite similar. With a more open-minded younger generation, specialty coffee trends are becoming increasingly accessible, which is homogenizing the offerings worldwide. That's why I prefer to tell you about coffee shops where tradition has been passed down for generations. For me, a coffee shop that's been open for 100 years is worth a visit. So, for this first blog post, I'm going to tell you about two famous Portuguese coffee shops that I absolutely wanted to visit during my stay in the land of "pastel de nata" and azulejos tiles.
Lisbon: Café A Brasileira
Fernando Pessoa, “the Flâneur”
The extravagant "Café A Brasileira" is one of those cafés where customers have changed the course of history. Open since 1905, the café is located in the heart of Lisbon, on the edge of the Largo do Chiado district. The eternal customer immortalized in bronze on the terrace is the eccentric Fernando Pessoa, also known as "the flâneur." A political and cultural writer of the city, he is renowned for his articles on beverages (and his talent...).
The establishment itself is a journey back in time. The architecture is sublime. The coffee served is a medium-dark roast, very well balanced. It's representative of what you find in other typical Lisbon cafés. A short espresso, not at all fruity, but still well-balanced and without bitterness. Let's just say that with the quintessential local pastry, the Pastel de nata, it's a great way to start the day!
A "must" if you go to Lisbon and want to better understand the history of cafes and their influence on the thinkers and critics who shaped today's world.
Porto: Café Majestic
A café with some of the most impressive architecture, in the heart of Porto.
The Majestic Café is a chic Porto café reminiscent of the Belle Époque in Paris. Its Art Nouveau architecture propelled it to the status of a favorite haunt for Porto residents (Portuans = inhabitants of Porto) since 1921. Its charm and luxury inspired the city's political and economic elite. Later, thinkers and artists frequented the place, including J.K. Rowling while writing Harry Potter. Today, tourists offer a better glimpse into the typical clientele. It's therefore best to go early or late, before the influx of tourists like myself, who visit the café with cameras in hand. It does take away some of the magic… This way, you can experience the café's true local atmosphere.
The coffee served is decent, nothing more. The espresso is short and lacks acidity, in the Portuguese tradition. The menu is also unremarkable. The prices are high compared to the quality of the products. Don't worry, though, the café is worth a visit. Its romantic atmosphere, the waiters' costumes, and the architecture will make you forget the price. This café reminds us of the importance and influence that places and drinks have had on culture.
Tip: Visit in the evening; it's magnificent with the lights. Avoid eating there! Porto offers many better restaurants for the price. Ask for a table on the back terrace behind the piano if you'd like to spend more time writing… a book or a poem.
My colleague Antoine will be writing about independent cafés in Portugal in an upcoming blog post. To conclude this first blog post inspired by traditional Portuguese cafés, here's a short excerpt from a poem written by Fernando Pessoa in a café. I'll let you guess whether he was under the influence of the drink or the coffee: Follow your destiny.
Follow your destiny,
Water the plants.
Loves roses.
The rest is shadow
Of foreign trees.
The reality
Is always more or less
That which we want.
We alone are always
Equal to ourselves.
"The flâneur"
